Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
